I don’t know about spritz cookies. I bought a cheap cookie press that had the Hershey’s Kiss logo and it sucked right from the start; I threw it in the trash after tangling with it for an hour. I next bought a rechargeable model – the Villaware Power Cookie Press. This looked a little sturdier and had larger, metal, cookie plates. We thought we’d start with the basic spritz recipe that came with the thing, but this did not work out well. Check out the recipe. Do these people edit their manuals? We wound up making a pretty soft dough but the press still had to work hard to extrude it – making a huge amount of noise in the process. Furthermore, the cookies did not adhere well to the ungreased baking sheet and would sometimes come off in pieces. The outcome was an assortment of ugly cookies with a few nice ones, as well as some thumbprint cookies my mom made when she was ready to give the press the old heave-ho. I have been told this takes practice, but I don’t know if I have it in me to go through this kind of aggravation. Please email me if you have any advice.
Yearly Archives: 2007
Make your own gravlax
Stayed up late yesterday to start the gravlax so now it’s tomorrow. Gravlax is cured salmon that you eat sort of like lox – but it is not smoked. It’s easy to make, but you need some basic equipment to allow it to cure safely, namely some sort of strainer contraption with a drip pan and a way for you to put a top on with a weight. Everything should be made of stainless steel. Hotel pans are good for this and you can buy them in a restaurant supply store or online. I use two 4″ half pans and one 2″ perforated half pan. The “half” refers to half of a full-size hotel pan – which are the pans you see on steam tables. The number indicates the height of the sides. The perforated pan needs to be shallower than the one you are using for the drippings, obviously. I suppose you can use a couple of sheet pans and a cooling rack in a pinch. Anyhow, once you have your pans and they are clean, clean, clean, you can go to town and get a boneless side (fillet) of salmon WITH the skin attached. Get the freshest fish you can muster. Locate cheesecloth, a lemon, an ounce of vodka or gin, a bunch of dill and a pastry brush. Mix a cure: 6 oz of kosher salt, 6 oz of sugar and a heaping tablespoon of ground black pepper. Wash and dry the salmon fillet and gently remove any pin bones with pliers or tweezers. If you run your finger down the middle of the fillet you will feel them with no problem. Place the perforated pan in one of the other pans and then drape some cheesecloth in there that overlaps the pan. You want enough to be able to wrap the fillet when you are done here. Place the salmon on top of the cheesecloth skin side down. Do not overlap or bend the salmon to make it fit – the fillet should lay perfectly flat. Squeeze the lemon over the flesh. With the pastry brush, brush all exposed flesh with the vodka or gin. Next, pack the entire cure over the fish. Use less cure for the thinner end and make sure you have the flesh completely covered. Now, cover the salmon with the dill, which you should chop roughly. Wrap the loose cheesecloth over the top of the salmon so it is bundled. Place the remaining pan on top of the fish, ensuring a snug fit. Put a couple of bricks or canned foods on top. Use anything stable that weighs a few pounds and is fine in the refrigerator. Refrigerate for 2 – 3 days. Remove cure (sounds like it will be a problem, but it won’t be, trust me – you can rinse and pat it dry quickly if it does not scrape off easily) and enjoy. Slice thinly! Gravlax keeps for 5 – 7 days, from what I understand, but it is usually gone in a day or two at my place.
Serve with dill honey mustard (make this by mixing equal parts honey and mustard and a little finely chopped dill) and hearty bread or crispbread, like Wasa.
Below are seven photos that I took when the gravlax was ready. I took one at each stage of the “taking apart” and slicing process so that you can reverse-engineer things and see what it all looks like. Note that I generally slice from the smaller end but you can slice from the larger end, if you want to access the less salty sections first. Be sure to slice as close to the skin as you are able, making large, thin slices.
1) Here is the way the gravlax contraption looks when it goes in/comes out of the fridge after the curing process.
2) Here the top hotel pan and weights have been removed.
3) The cheesecloth has been opened and the dill exposed.
4) Here the dill has been removed and you can see the remainder of the cure. Note that I used more pepper for this batch than is called for in the base recipe.
5) Now all the cure has been removed and it is ready to slice. Give it a good sniff; it should smell fresh and briny.
6) Start slicing – making long slices, holding firm the opposite end of the fillet to the direction you are slicing (you can use a hand towel for this) and keeping the side of the knife in the position shown (i.e., parallel to the fish). What you want to do is cut down slightly as you start, but only enough to start a thin slice, and then make that slice nice and long but no thicker as you go. This takes practice, but don’t despair. It is very difficult to describe what you need to do here; one trick is to use the opposite end of the fillet as leverage. You can start on either end, but know that if you start close to the end you will not have a long slice because you will be cutting from your starting point to the end. Note that this image is of the thin end of the side, not the main piece. Also, I use my serrated knife because it is extremely thin and razor-sharp and works better for me than my current slicer, which is normally a better choice here.
7) Here’s a shot of the main side being sliced. Normally I’d have less skin visible, but I wanted shorter slices for appetizers.
Genki in Berkeley
Sushi today at Genki. Genki (1610 San Pablo Avenue, Berkeley) is an unassuming place in an ugly area (San Pablo Avenue – enough said) that we passed daily – sometimes multiple times – since 2000. Today we stopped. Matthew and I agree that our meal was very good. We sat at the sushi bar so we could keep an eye on the goings on with the fish and were treated to friendly service and banter. We both had one of the basic sushi combos for about $10 and ordered two deluxe rolls. The combos were good in that the fish was very fresh and the fish to rice ratio favored the fish. I mean, if you can’t serve a decent piece of tuna, I really don’t care about the flaming eel and blowfish roll. While the lunch combos might be a better value at Yammy (El Cerrito Plaza), for example, Genki’s is solid. The salad is a little odd, though, because the dressing sort of sits on top in a little lump. I don’t know what to make of this but it tasted good. The rolls were fabulous – and huge. These kinds of extravaganzas cost about ten bucks wherever you go, but Genki’s were the largest I have ever been served. We had what they call an Island Roll, with shrimp tempura inside and salmon, avocado and lemon on the outside. The other one had shrimp within and spicy tuna and tobiko outside. Oh, man, so good — so pretty. If I were wealthy I’d eat this kind of thing all the time. We’ll be going back soon for more rolls.
Pyramid Ale House in Berkeley
Just a trip to Pyramid Brewery, my regular Wednesday night haunt. This time, though, the other family units came along – but not Steven, who’s in NYC on business. Pyramid (901 Gilman Street, Berkeley) is a comfy place with great beer and overpriced, OK food. You have to be very careful at Pyramid in terms of the food, since venturing into unknown territory – for example when they change their menu – is almost never rewarded. Recently they revamped their grub, so we tried a few new things, like the roasted Anaheim chili appetizer, which was GROSS. The filling includes Andouille sausage, cheese and zucchini, which sounds good on paper, but turns out to be a mushy paste. The mac and cheese side was hopelessly dry, as was the scalloped potatoes dish – both of which were cold and lifeless, too. Both had loads of panko on top that was, well, raw. I’d like to go into that friggin’ kitchen and get rid of the panko, since it shows up on so much and they clearly don’t know how to use it. For the record, the first thing you learn in cooking school is to use plenty of cream and butter in these kinds of dishes. This is not difficult. You need to get some ooze. I guess they are just too cheap and think they can fool us by creating a faux crust with lots of breadcrumbs. The cheese and chicken quesadilla was fine, and actually generous. Nothing special but not an outright insult. Stick to the chicken sammies, burgers and sausage plate, or get drunk before you have the other stuff.
Gizmos and cookies
Shortbread was on the ‘to do’ list today, as well as a 7up cake for the parental unit to take to a bowling lunch tomorrow.
Shortbread is the best butter cookie in the world and easy to make. My mom and I always cut out little logs and dip one end in chocolate. This year I picked up a little electric gizmo that you put chocolate in to melt and it keeps it warm so you can work with it over time. Since there is no need to temper your chocolate for this kind of use, a mess-free melting system is perfect. It has a warming base and two little nonstick inserts for whatever you are melting. I found this at Tuesday Morning in Berkeley and gladly paid the ten bucks for it. It came with all kinds of plastic tools and molds, and a little rack for coating. If you scrounge around Tuesday Morning and look for plain brown boxes with white labels that say “Cook’s Essentials,” you have a good shot at finding a real treasure now and again.
Once you have your shortbread done and it has cooled completely, dip ends into ~70% couverture chocolate that has been melted and then place on silicone mats. You can then carefully peel the mat away from the cookies once the chocolate has set. Be sure to use good chocolate; the cookies have very few ingredients, so you will really taste the chocolate. This would be the time to spring for Valrhona.
If you want a good shortbread recipe, just email me. You’ll need only butter, sugar, flour, vanilla and maybe a little salt. There are a million good recipes on the web, as well.
With all the baking going on, we wound up having pizza sandwiches for dinner. I always freeze leftover pizza and then reheat it and make sandwiches with two slices. Just toss some turkey breast, tomatoes and whatever on the top of slice number one and cover with slice number two. Kids love this and it is a great way to use leftovers.
Check out the photo of Berry in his new sweater. Berry has sebaceous adenitis, so he lost quite a bit of hair, necessitating artificial means of keeping warm. He’s angered by the sweater, but what else can we do?