Yearly Archives: 2008

Polenta ala Ina Garten

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Ina Garten's rosemary polenta

Ina Garten’s rosemary polenta

I made a great polenta dish today from Barefoot Contessa Family Style by Ina Garten.  I love all of Ina Garten’s cookbooks because the recipes really work.  This is an older book – from 2002 – but I go back to it again and again.  The rosemary polenta on page 130 is killer, even if you substitute whole milk for the half and half and use commercially-prepared chicken stock.  I have some leftovers which I plan on serving under chicken in pan gravy tomorrow.  Of all the cooked-formed-chilled-cut-fried polenta dishes in my world, this is by far the best; that little bit of rosemary she calls for really makes the dish.  Oh, did I mention that I served the polenta tonight with NY strip steaks?  I nabbed a whole USDA Choice striploin the other day for $5.99/lb.  This is by far the best way to go if you need to feed a group or if you don’t mind freezing what you don’t use right away.  A good striploin does not need much trimming and, indeed, you’ll want to leave that layer of fat on there to lubricate the meat as it cooks.  Simply cut steaks evenly with a sharp knife.  Once you’ve done this a time or two you’ll be a pro – just don’t fear those larger cuts of meat since they often represent a terrific bargain.  When my mother goes into my fridge to see what’s going on in there and she catches a glimpse of a massive vacuum packed slab of beef, she knows she’ll be firing up the Weber for steaks that weekend.

Smoked whitefish makes its way to Richmond Costco!

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HUGE smoked whitefish news today.  I again have a reason to live:  Costco in Richmond, CA, is carrying 2-pound tubs of Acme Fish Corporation’s smoked whitefish salad.  It was all about serendipity this afternoon as I sampled some kind of nonsense close to where they stock the smoked trout and Copper River salmon.  I eyed white square containers of something out of the corner of my eye, making out only the words “Blue Hill Bay.”  Oh my God! — in a flash I connected those words to the Costco in Long Island City, where my parents lived — where we bought tubs of whitefish salad from Acme sold under that name, enough to see Steve, Matt and myself through the next six months in San Francisco, a place far from the natural habitat of decent smoked fish products.  I made my way to the white containers in slow motion, with arms outstretched as if greeting a lover, thinking, “Oh, please let this be what I think it is.  I’ve waited since 1995 for this day, checking the fish area regularly, always to be disappointed.  This would redeem even the bitter disappointment of that salty, lame-ass, whole smoked whitefish that showed up for two weeks in 2007.”  I quickly grabbed one and did a scan akin to a doctor looking for ten fingers and ten toes, seeking out the words “smoked” “whitefish” “salad” and “Acme.”  Then I could breathe again.  I was on the horn to Steve in seconds flat, almost yelling into my mouthpiece that this costs $7.95.   Seven friggin’ ninety five for two pounds!  When you are even able find it in these parts it costs upwards of $12 per pound.  I took two home.  This is especially pleasing because my bagel monger, Berkeley Bagels (1281 Gilman Street), used to sell this for $8 a pound, but they got greedy and it now costs way more than that.  This is notice to everyone that you no longer have to be held hostage by Berkeley Bagels and Manhattan Bagels (1789 4th Street, Berkeley) in order to get a little smoked whitefish salad for your bagels.  Note that this salad is not chunky, rather very smooth, with no preservative aftertaste that almost all other commercially prepared smoked fish salads have.

Matt’s first brew

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matthew valencia having his first beer at pyramid brewery in berkeley in 2008

Matt’s first beer in a restaurant today!  Matthew ordered the brewer’s rack at Pyramid Alehouse (901 Gilman, Berkeley) this evening and was very pleased to show his ID to the server.  I captured his first sip with my cell phone – and was more than happy to help drink the beer.  Paul treated to a nice meal, including a new mussel appetizer — served in a beer broth with fries and crostini on the side — which was very good.  I am also happy to report that Pyramid brought back their cheese soup and gave the old heave-ho to that terrible soup they had for awhile….which I believe was squash, but I may be wrong.  Whatever it was, it was a thin and tasteless affair.

Salmon in parchment

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Salmon fillets in parchment packs ready for the oven

Salmon fillets in parchment packs ready for the oven

Salmon fishing on the West Coast will be drastically reduced soon, so I made some tonight as sort of a “last hurrah,” since I won’t be buying it much if it goes significantly up in price.  As a nod to lighter fare I cut a side into smaller fillets and then baked them en papillote — in parchment paper.  You can, too.  Cut folded parchment sheets into hearts which, when opened, exceed the area of the salmon – which should be placed flat on one side of the heart – by about two inches.  Be sure to salt and pepper the fish first, and then add to the top some fresh herbs or a slice of orange.  Whatever you like.  Then fold the salmon-less side of your parchment heart over the top of the salmon and start sealing the packet, tucking the two layers of parchment under, beginning at the top.  When you reach the point at the bottom of the heart you need to do a “tuck under” with your last “fold ‘n crimp.”  Bake them on a sheet pan at a preheated 350 F. for no more than 15 minutes or so for 5-ounce fillets.  It depends on your oven, but if you dry them out you’ll be really sorry.  Make an x-shaped cut in the parchment with a sharp paring knife without getting a steam burn and serve in the paper with sides.

tomato feta salad

The really fabulous thing about this meal was my famous tomato-feta salad – always a hit here.  This is so easy to make, but relies on one expensive ingredient:  hazelnut, almond or walnut oil.  In my opinion you should have one of these on hand at all times to add a little special zip now and again.  A few rich ingredients like this allow you to pull off some classy last-minute meals.  Costco sometimes sells these oils in trio packs for about $17, and you can keep them for about two years.  I don’t care what anyone says, when I store mine in the back of the fridge I have seen no rancidity for 24 months; my fridge is at a steady 37 F.  What you need to have on hand is:  good tomatoes cut into eights.  Feta cheese – the real thing – in small cubes.  Use about 1/3 of the volume of your tomatoes.  Orange juice.  Lemon juice.  Onion powder.  Sliced red onion – as much as you like, but not too much.  Whole Calamata olives, which you can buy without pits in a jar, if you don’t want to deal with pits.  Use the same volume of olives as you do cheese.  If you buy a huge jar at Costco (where else?) it’ll keep for ages.  One of the oils I mention above.  Salt and pepper.  Make a vinaigrette out of the oil and orange juice by simply whisking them together, using proportions you like but heavier on the oil, something like 1/2 cup oil for every 1/4 cup OJ.  Add a splash of lemon juice and a shake of onion powder.  Whisk again.  Salt and pepper to taste.  Whisk.  Correct seasoning and oil/acid ratio.  Whisk – whisk – whisk.  Set aside.  Mix the rest of the stuff gently in a large bowl.  Add as much dressing as you like, reserving the rest for future use.  Toss gently and allow to sit at room temperature for a half hour before serving, but pop in the fridge if it’ll be longer.  You will not believe how good this salad tastes.

I also roasted some French string beans (yes, this is a no-no and you should only roast big, bad string beans, but I was dealing with leftovers and had to do something different).

roasted green beans