Yearly Archives: 2008

Berry on his futon

Berry the akita on his futon in 2008

I have a few nice photos of old bones laying on his futon.  How many dogs are able to boast their own futon?  We have had some hot weather here, so the office – where said futon is located – has been pretty toasty.  I installed a little fan and pointed it directly at the futon.  I thought he’d be afraid of it, but it’s worked out fine.  Dogs always suffer in the heat, and there is so little you can do when you have no AC.  Plus, that pack mentality is so strong in Berry that he’d rather roast than sleep on the cool concrete floor in the garage, for example.  Maybe he’s afraid he’ll miss something or can’t live for even an hour without one of his soft surfaces.  Weird dog.

Comfort food for Jon

biscuits in a sheet pan ready to eat

Jon is moving to Santa Barbara tomorrow, so I thought I’d make a fancy breakfast for him this weekend.  I had gotten a hold of a small organic ham last week, which I roasted next to some oven home fries, made by dicing taters, tossing on a sheet pan with plenty of olive oil and some S&P, rubbing them all around, and then roasting in a very hot convection oven. 

Oven hash browns in blue dish

Oven hash browns/home fries

 I perpetrated buttermilk biscuits and sausage gravy, too.  Making sausage gravy is easy and provides great comfort.  You need:  some kind of sausage – any kind without anise, so don’t use Italian.  Cooked is OK, raw is OK.  I use about a pound.  If raw and with fat, i.e., breakfast sausage, brown in a heavy gauge saucepan and, when done, add butter so you have about a half a cup of fat.  If you use raw sausage meat with no fat, like that horrible turkey sausage, brown in a 1/2 cup of canola oil or butter — but butter is better.  If you have cooked sausage, cut into little cubes and fry in said quantity of butter.  Add 1 tablespoon of some combination of ground thyme, rosemary and sage.  Continue to fry for a moment to open up the dried spices.  Toss in a bay leaf or two.  Add some Kosher salt and pepper – quantities depending upon  how salty the sausage is.  Add 1/2 cup or so of AP flour – stirring it in so you have a soft roux, adding more fat if the mixture is too dry.  Don’t brown the roux – keep the flame very low but be sure to cook out the raw flour.  Warm 5 – 6 cups of milk (fat free is fine, but if you use fat free everything you will strangle all the comfort out of the dish) in the microwave.  Add the milk to the roux slowly while stirring with a wooden spoon.  I find that adding it in increments that are blended in completely cuts down on lumps.  Cook to just bubbling over lowest flame, stirring frequently.  Note that this will keep getting thicker, so if you plan on heating it up again to serve later, make sure you under-thicken it ever so slightly the first time around.  Serve this hot mass over toast or split biscuits.  At the last minute I made eggs to order for the group in my new GreenPan.  Yes, it does not stick at all when you use a little oil, but it does stick a bit if you don’t.  Eggs are the ultimate test of a pan in this regard. 

Jon and Matthew diving into a comforting breakfast at the dining table

4th of July 2008

grilled ribeye steaks on a plate

HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY!  We grilled ribeyes today.  Ribeyes be fatty and flavorful and good.  Since it’s a holiday, we went for the gusto.  I purchased a prime rib and cut the steaks myself.  Stupidly, I waited too long and was not able to find a bone-in cut, which I prefer for steaks.  Coarse salt and pepper and the Weber. 

roast caulifower in a blue speckled dish

We wanted something kind of light for the side dish, so I consulted The Best of America’s Test Kitchen 2008, which arrived the other day, and latched onto the roasted cauliflower recipe (p. 12).  One piece of advice:  if you have convection, use if for the last two legs of the roasting process.  The cauliflower turned out great – nice and brown and not bitter.  The yogurt sauce accompaniment was a hit, and would work for many other things – even scrambled eggs, I think.  Just so you know, Cook’s Illustrated is a great bimonthly publication.  It’s part of the America’s Test Kitchen megalopoly, and focuses on perfecting and reinventing classics and popular current dishes.  This is the one food magazine I pay for. 

dip for roast cauliflower

At the end of the year they send you said “best of,” which keeps you from having to clip so many recipes.  I have never been steered wrong by these people.  Matter of fact, yesterday I made the fudge (p. 59) for a party Matt was going to today, since I had on hand several cans of sweetened condensed milk, a couple of pounds of chocolate from my 2007 Christmas candy making, as well as many, many walnuts.  I never much liked fudge, finding it grainy and unpleasant, but I trusted ATK enough to give it a go.  Honestly, this was the best fudge I ever ate.  It was like a lighter ganache – and not so sweet.  The fact that I used a fancy Valrhona varietal helped.  I will be making this again.

the best of america's test kitchen 2008 cover

Roasted tri-color peppers

Digital watercolor of red, yellow and orange peppers

I’m still in a roasted pepper state of mind.  I want to be sure to have my fill while the yellow, red and orange are available in those megabags at Costco.  Remember to roast the hell out of them on a grill or in a convection oven or over an open flame, plop into a Ziploc bag for an hour, skin and seed ’em (the skin will have steamed loose rendering the peppers easy to peel.  Wipe the seeds off with a paper towel if they’re stubborn.  Tear into large strips and arrange nicely.  Use the juices in the plastic bag to make a dressing with olive oil, salt and pepper and a small quantity of fresh lemon juice.  Pour over peppers and shower on some shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.  (Remember one of the cardinal rules of cooking:  when there are few ingredients they need to be of quality).  Serve at room temperature and then store the rest in the fridge for later use on sandwiches.  Man, so good.

Food in Chi-town

Tuna tartare at Devon in Chicago in 2008

Tuna tartare at Devon in Chicago in 2008

Matt and Steve came back from Chicago the other day, so I have photos ready to post here.  Matt was visiting his ess oh and Steve was there as chaperone-at-a-distance.  Steve mainly went to diners and hot dog joints and Matt was treated in grand style to fancy places, like Devon (39 E. Chicago Avenue).  Steve was a tag-along at three meals, though, where he was able to eat off of real plates.  They went Gino’s, the famed deep-dish pizza emporium, where he sampled some tomatoey casserole masquerading as pizza.  I think Gino’s in Chicago is like Ray’s in New York City, with numerous places using “Gino’s” as some part of its name, with only the locals knowing where the real Gino’s is.  Even Matt can’t tell me which Gino’s he went to at the moment, and said he’ll “look at a map” tomorrow.  Food highlights included the tuna tartare and fried shrimp at Devon, cheap breakfasts at the Golden Nugget (various locations), and numerous Chicago hot dogs.  Matt was thrilled to be staying very close to Wrigley Field and an elevated subway line – capturing two of his obsessions, baseball and rail-based transportation systems.  He toured River North, taking photos of the kinds of buildings we don’t have in the Bay Area.  Oh, those wonderful, sturdy and warm brick apartment buildings!

Small brick apartment building in Chicago in 2008