Yearly Archives: 2009

On collecting cookbooks

Over the years I’ve collected a number of interesting old cookbooks, many from the 1940’s through the 1970’s, a time when convenience foods, casseroles and cocktail party appetizers were all the rage.  Recipes in these retro cookbooks are often scary.  What, in my opinion, constitutes scary?  Not the liberal use of butter, cream or meat, since all wholesome foods have their rightful place in a healthy diet.  Scary generally means something that does not occur in nature, or something so bastardized it is only a shadow of its former self.  It does not necessarily mean processed, since some processed foods are fine.  Processed just means you are taking something in its raw form and transforming it into something palatable.  Certainly you can take this to the extreme, but you really need to stop and think before you condemn all processed foods.  Take the much-maligned canned meat product, Spam.  I may call a ‘Spam cordon bleu’ recipe scary for its odd use of ingredients, but not because Spam itself is evil.  Spam is, essentially, shoulder pork and ham.  The worst ingredient here is the small amount of sodium nitrite, but this is added to all cured meats, i.e., salami, bacon, in order to keep a nice color and help prevent botulism.  When you compare Spam with a product like Cool Whip, a dessert topping like whipped cream with not a trace of cream (or even milk) but with  hydrogenated oil and high fructose corn syrup, well, Spam starts looking as good as wheatgrass.

Other things from this era that make me fearful are lime Jell-O aspics containing mayonnaise and shredded vegetables.  These materials, in my opinion, should never have been brought together in one mold – ever.  I bring this up because aspics loom large in retro cooking, and some are not to be believed.  The whole appetizing genre during these years is chock full of oddities, for that matter, so if you lay your hands on a cookbook from 1950, be sure to take a gander at the hors d’oeuvres section.

In my mix are retro cooking guides that are completely sane – often to my surprise, since my collection focuses on the unusual.  For example, I have an Elsie the Cow-themed book published by Borden in 1952 that contains mostly classic, if dairy-intense, recipes.  On the other hand, many of the cookbooks and pamphlets published by manufacturers are outrageous in the application of their products, a situation made even worse by the general trend toward convenience during those years.

I have been making an attempt of late to bring publications in from the early 1900’s, opening up a whole world of information in terms of how the culinary world adapted to technological advances, like electricity and gas.  These books date back to an era when refrigeration was new, and many even advise readers that a refrigerator (and we’re not talking a three-door KitchenAid here) is “nice” for a few things, like meat and butter, but “not really necessary.”  There is nothing that brings home the convenience of modern culinary life quicker than reading a chapter on how to store perishable provisions in 1910.

My collection of 1980’s and 1990’s cookbooks is not extensive, but the ones I buy for the hell of it generally have an interesting hook, so you’ll see some of those along with my workhorses, like The Frugal Gourmet series, by and by, as I post about them

I’ll be adding cookbooks as quickly as I am able.  As always, contact me if you would like more information about a particular book.

The high cost of almond paste

When I go to Alaska next month I’ll have time to post the 50 or so back-logged entries I’m holding. While the economy has not been good, it has been great for my line of consulting – which is always feast or famine, but has been more feast since the stimulus plan went into effect. Don’t think of me as taking advantage of the misery of others, think of me as doing my part toward alternative energy sources. ‘Nuff said. I’m glad I’m bringing in money, because Steven picked up a tube of almond paste for me at Lucky and it was NINE dollars! I’m surprised he even bought it because he’s on the frugal side. I told him that I normally buy it elsewhere, and to call me if he is confronted by this kind of price for 7 ounces of ANYTHING. Plus, who the hell needs 7 ounces of something? I am so sick of this downsizing, which makes it difficult to bake, especially, since you need to be precise with ingredients. Even a “quart” of mayo is down to 30 ounces. Anyway, I made pignoli cookies using my friend Tonina’s recipe, which requires a half-pound of almond paste. I love these Italian cookies, which are a bit crisp on the outside but dense, soft and chewy inside. I used to buy them at Franks Bakery on 30th Avenue in Astoria, Queens, when I lived there and they were a real treat, given the price. Tonina still lives in Astoria, and she’s Italian, so she knew exactly what I was talking about when I described the cookie I missed. I am now down to needing one cookie recipe. When I was a grade-schooler, I used to have these flat, leaf-shaped, butter cookies that were coated withchocolate, with the chocolate being thicker in the middle and then thinning as the leaf fanned out. These were to die for, and I have never had them since those days visiting Stork’s Pastry Shop in Whitestone.

Remembering date nut bread

Date nut bread in a loaf pan

A retro dinner the other night (my Mother made Swiss steak, remember that?) made me want to have something I have not had in a good 20 years:  date nut bread.  I have no idea if this was popular all over the country, but it was in New York City when I was a kid in the 1960’s.  Chock full o’Nuts coffee shops sold date nut bread and cream cheese sandwiches.  By the very early 1980’s, when most of the shops had already closed, there were still a few hanging on, and there was one at 116th & Broadway – across from Columbia University – that kept me alive for all those late-night classes with coffee and date nut bread, which, if you dropped it, would have broken your foot.  If you check their site (they still hawk their brand of coffee, though I have no idea how many times the company changed hands) you can hear Mrs. Black singing the jingle about Chock full o’Nuts being “the heavenly coffee” (click on the old commercial links), but they don’t have the story there of the Blacks’ nasty divorce.  Since this is not the kind of thing you’ll find in a new cookbook, I checked out one my old ones and, sure enough.  I love old cookbooks because you’re likely to find names and notes written in them — and stains — and it gives me a feeling of continuity when I think that perhaps a woman back in 1952 was making the same recipe and had dropped her 1/4 pound of butter on page 869, only for me to find it in 2009.  The chosen book was Meta Given’s Modern Encyclopedia of Cooking (Chicago:  J. G. Fergusen and Associates, 1952), whose recipe turned out a winner of a loaf, if a bit less dense than I’m used to.  Now for the cream cheese!

(Note that the recipe is missing the baking temperature. I bake it at 350 F.)

Old date nut bread recipe

Birthday lunch at Pear Street Bistro

 

Calamari and shrimp appetizer at Pear Street Bistro in Pinole California

Steve, Matt and I ate lunch at Pear Street Bistro (2395 San Pablo Avenue, Pinole) today to celebrate Steven having taken off this week — which is an occasion, believe me.  I was psyched because I wanted him to have the fried chicken, crab martini, and a couple of other things that are good there.  It’s also a really comfy space.  When we were given the menu, however, I noticed that they no longer had the fixed price lunch, the crab martini, nor the fried chicken.

Crab cocktail at Pear Street Bistro in Pinole California

In fact, they had eliminated all but sandwiches, salads and the like.  What to do?  I told the server about how we were all set for the things we had become accustomed to, and she said it would no problem for them to hook us up with a crab martini, and that the chicken was on the dinner menu only because it comes with mashed potatoes, which they make after lunch.  As long as we didn’t mind having fries, she said, they would do the chicken – or anything else they had the ingredients for, for that matter.  Excellent.

Matt and Steve at Pear Street Bistro in Pinole California

Steve had the chicken, Matt the fish and chips, and I the Cobb salad.  We started with said crab cocktail and their fried calamari/shrimp appetizer.  The chicken was to Steve’s liking, and it came with a side of gravy that he used for his fries that was something like Welsh rarebit.  My Cobb salad was made with romaine, which was good because nowadays you are likely to find Cobbs made with spring mix, which I don’t like because I need a strong lettuce to stand up to all those chunks of bleu cheese and chicken.  The appetizers were good as always, and we like that the crab cocktail comes with nacho chips and guacamole and the seafood with a wasabi sauce that you can use for fries, which the two guys had a boatload of between them.

Hamachi collars for dinner

Matthew will be very pleased to see  marinating in the fridge when he comes Hamachi collars in marinadehome.  We love them, and now that they are readily available at Joyco Foods (3288 Pierce Street, Richmond), we are able to have them often.  I have also purchased them at Tokyo Fish Market (1220 San Pablo Avenue, Berkeley), one of my main sources of sashimi grade fish and such things.  Joyco is in Pacific East Mall, and they sell lots of good frozen things – but know your prices before you buy.  When I was there the other day there was a guy unloading a large box of fresh hamachi collars, so that’s what I got, paying about $15 for two, huge, full collars, each yielding two servings.  The collar is that part of the fish between the head and body, and you get bones and all.  A whole collar equals 360 degrees around the fish.  I threw them in a bowl with some Soy Vey teriyaki sauce (else just mix soy sauce, chopped garlic, sugar and a dash of pepper to make your own) and allowed them to marinate in the fridge until I was ready to convect-blast them, which you need to do right before service.    You can also just salt and pepper them and serve with lemon wedges — it’s up to you.  When you are ready, spread out on a rack over a sheet pan lined with foil.  Use the foil if you use the teriyaki sauce because this will drip down and the sugar will caramelize into hard candy that you’ll need to blast out with sand.  You have been warned.  Preheat the oven to 375 F. convection (400 F. if you lack convection) and roast for 10 minutes.  Turn down 50 degrees and cook until done, depending upon the size, but don’t overcook.  For my humongous collars I added an additional 15 minutes.