Yearly Archives: 2011

Make a cheese souffle at home

Cheese souffle just out of the oven

Cheese souffle just out of the oven

Cheese souffle is the kind of thing many home cooks are afraid to make because they think it’s difficult.  It’s really not.  You need to practice once or twice in terms of technique, which is the part you need to pay attention to since there are not all that many ingredients in a basic cheese souffle — the one I suggest, since it’s wonderful and doesn’t need to be loaded up with all manner of nonsense.

This will serve 4 with some bread and maybe sliced heirloom tomatoes, though my family could probably polish two of these off in nothing flat.

Use good cheese and organic whole milk and eggs.  This recipe is simple and relies on quality ingredients.  If you use crappy, mass-produced cheese product you won’t wind up with a deeply-flavored, rich, complex souffle.

This is a good dish if you want to show off, though I stopped doing that about 20 years ago.  I wound up bombing when I tried to show off and, since I’m no longer trying to lure a boyfriend into my web, there’s no real need.  I figure my family and friends know the deal with me and it’s all good, fallen souffles, broken oyster stews and all.

Cheese Souffle
   Serves 4

6-cup souffle dish, or other casserole, with high, smooth interior
Whisk
High-heat spatula
Stand mixer or balloon whisk and large, copper-lined mixing bowl

2-1/2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons AP flour
1 cup whole milk
Pinch nutmeg
Pinch white pepper
Pinch salt
4 egg yolks
5 egg whites
3/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup shredded cheese (Gruyere, Cheddar, a mix, whatever you like)

For prepping souffle dish:
1 tablespoon soft butter
1/2 cup panko (course breadcrumbs)

1).  Prep souffle dish by buttering the inside, being careful to catch the whole surface.
2).  Toss in panko, and turn dish this way and that, so the panko sticks to the butter and there is panko on the entire surface.  This will allow the souffle to climb up the side of the dish.  Set aside.
3).  Make a thick bechamel sauce, like so:  microwave the milk for 1 minute and set aside; melt the butter in a saute pan and add the flour; combine with spatula and stir over low heat for a minute — stirring constantly.  You don’t want any color, which should result in a roux blanc, or white roux.  Whisk in all of the milk quickly; add the seasoning pinches; cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for a minute or so.  When you have a thick white sauce, which is what a bechamel is, take it off the heat.  Note:  if you use cold milk you’ll get lumps.  You have been warned.
4).  Separate the egg whites from the yolks by hand, so you don’t lose half the whites — which you will if you use the shells.  Make sure you have absolutely no yolk in your whites!  You should have one little bowl of 5 whites and one with 4 intact yolks. Wrap up the extra yolk for some other use.
5).  Place the whites and the salt into your mixing bowl and whip at high speed until you have serious peaks.  At this point you should pre-heat your oven to 400 deg. F.
6).  Whisk the egg yolks into your white sauce.
7).  With your spatula, cut out a nice chunk of the egg whites and gently whisk it into your now-yellow sauce to lighten it up.
8).  Fold the cheese into the sauce with your spatula.
9).  Fold the rest of the egg white into your sauce — carefully.  It’s OK to transfer the sauce to the mixing bowl with the whites, assuming you used a small saucepan for the white sauce.
10).  Place batter into prepped souffle dish using spatula, but don’t disturb the sides.
11).  Place on center rack of oven and turn it down to 375 deg. F.
12).  Cook for 30 minutes and then test with a skewer, which should come out relatively clean.  You need to work quickly.  If too soft for your taste, put back in the oven for 5 minutes.
13).  Separate the top with a fork and spoon and serve ASAP, as it will deflate in only a few moments!

Ingredients for cheese souffle

Ingredients for cheese souffle

Making roux blanc for cheese souffle

Making roux blanc for cheese souffle

Bechamel for cheese souffle done

Bechamel for cheese souffle done

Bechamel with egg yolks whisked in

Bechamel with egg yolks whisked in

Whipped egg whites and salt - testing for peaks

Whipped egg whites and salt – testing for peaks

Sauce lightened with some whipped egg white and now adding the cheese

Sauce lightened with some whipped egg white and now adding the cheese (I used a spatula to mix the cheese in – not the whisk shown)

Cheese souffle ready for the oven (I sprinkled a little extra cheese on the top)

Cheese souffle ready for the oven (I sprinkled a little extra cheese on the top)

Cheese souffle is done

Cheese souffle is done

Did a “drive by” at Delhi Dhaba & Chaat in San Pablo (CA)

Chicken wrap with masala fries from Delhi Dhaba & Chaat in San Pablo

Chicken wrap with masala fries

Matthew and I were hungry (what else is new?) while taking care of a Smart & Final shopping trip in San Pablo recently.  It was pouring rain so we didn’t want a production, and decided that he would run into the new Indian place, Delhi Dhaba & Chaat, with $20 and buy a few things to snack on in the car.

He came back with pakora and a chicken wrap with masala fries, costing something in the neighborhood of $10.

Here’s a quick run-down of what we thought:

1).  The pakora, little vegetable fritters, were served in a paper bag to absorb the oil.  They were OK, but a little batter-heavy and veggie-light.
2).  The masala fries were regular fries with a little powdered seasoning.  Fine, but, you know, decent fries with a little something on them – what more can you say?
3).  The chicken wrap was fabulous. Lots of really moist, flavorful chicken with fried onion and green bell pepper.  All kinds of  juices so it wasn’t dry.  The naan was warm and charred.  I’m happy to have this available because I’ve been missing the chix wraps at Curry Cafe on Solano in Albany.  They used to have a great chicken wrap, but when the place changed over to House of Curries, I didn’t, and still don’t, like their version.

The proprietors at DD&C, according to Matthew, are very nice and have years of experience in the restaurant business.

Matt and I’ll go back for a full meal and report to you soon.

If you go, though, try that chicken wrap.

Affogato: Quick, wonderful dessert

Affogato at Pasta Pomodoro in El Cerrito

My son’s friend, Ed, introduced him to affogato a few years ago, and I’m glad.

Affogato means “drowned” in Italian, and involves pouring a shot of hot espresso over a scoop of vanilla gelato or ice cream, and is quite delicious.  I’m glad to have learned about it because it’s an easy way to serve a lovely dessert on the fly.

If you don’t have an espresso machine, a very strong shot of regular or good instant coffee works, but, really, you can go to Marshall’s or Ross and get a stove top espresso maker for around $10.  You don’t need some expensive job from Sur La Table.  One can of Illy and a quart of decent ice cream in the freezer will make you dessert-ready.

Ideally, serve the ice cream in a cup and the espresso on the side in a little silver pitcher or creamer, allowing your guests to pour said espresso over said ice cream.

The photo above is of a mini-affogato we had recently at Pasta Pomodoro in El Cerrito – which you can generally order even when it’s not listed on the menu.