Monthly Archives: May 2013

The CSA Experience: Part 6

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Leeks in two parts. One end for broth, the other to use in a dish

Remember when I made the leek and feta scramble in installment 2 of this series?  I was then left with tough leek ends.

I used those ends today to make a soup with potatoes and ham.

Not so sexy, I know.

I promised I’d keep you informed about how I incorporate my biweekly CSA box from Albert & Eve into my life.  I think it’s helpful to have the whole story, not just cherry-picked recipes and photos of the beautiful stuff.  For every lovely dish of rainbow carrots or braised artichokes you put out out you’re going to have to figure out what to do with a whole mess of green onions.  Or trimmings.

While not every dish can be mind-blowing, they can all be tasty, even when they’re frugal,
and frugality is a must with a CSA box or you’ll wind up with some of it in the recycle bin.

The possibly of that makes me nuts.

Take the artichokes, for example.

I’m constantly thinking about them — even though I have a master plan.  They’ve been sitting in the fridge for over a week now, wrapped in damp paper towels to keep them lively.

Pending some kind of major problem, I’ll be getting another three artichokes in my next box.  I want to make all of them at the same time rather than just the three I received in my first box.  You see, I have four people.  There will be a general outcry if I come out with less than one per head.

Back to the leek ends and leek broth.

Leek broth is great for soups that benefit from mild oniony flavor.  Potato soup works especially well.

If you have a bunch of leek ends, a few big potatoes and some leftover ham or pork you’re in business. You won’t end up with a pretty, fancy-pants soup, but it’ll be plenty comforting.

This is why I’m always throwing odd little bags of leftover meat in the freezer and why you should, too.  Raw or cooked — doesn’t matter.

potato and leek soup

The soup in the photo has some green flecks in it because I tossed in the leftover bohr kale tapenade from installment 5.  Why not?  The tapenade has a complementary flavor profile, and leek and kale go very well together.

Here, then, are the instructions for this frugal soup.

Potato & Pork Soup with Leek Broth
 
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Use the dark green parts of your leeks to make a broth for a highly-customizable potato-pork soup.
Author:
Recipe type: Soup
Cuisine: American
Ingredients
  • Dark green ends of 7 or 8 leeks, rinsed and chopped into 1-inch pieces
  • 8 cups water
  • 3 large Russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
  • Kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Leftover cooked roast pork, cubed, shredded or sliced, as desired. You can use ham, if that's what you have, or even chicken. Leftover chicken thigh meat works very well. Keep the pieces small so they heat through fairly quickly.
Method
  1. Place leeks in pot large enough to make soup and cover with the water.
  2. Bring to a boil and then simmer for about 30 minutes.
  3. Strain broth and return to pot, discarding leek pieces.
  4. Add potatoes.
  5. Remove enough broth so that the potatoes are just covered. If you don't have enough broth, add a little water. It all depends upon the size of the potatoes you used.
  6. Add salt & pepper. If the pork you are using for this dish is salty, then keep that in mind when you add salt at this step.
  7. Bring to a boil.
  8. Simmer until potatoes are just about done.
  9. Add pork and bring back to a simmer.
  10. Cook until potatoes are done.
  11. Stamp potatoes with a potato masher, or end of a wire whisk, so that you wind up with a thick, chunky soup.
  12. Adjust seasonings.
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The CSA Experience: Part 5

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The red flecks in this jar of garlicky kale tapenade come from the red stems of the kale itself. This is served warm with chèvre and fresh crusty bread.

Albert & Eve included two beautiful bunches of red bohr kale in my first CSA box.

Normally I would braise the kale with kimchi and extra garlic, but I was out of luck in the kimchi department so I had to think of something else.  Something really different. Especially since I served some of the other stuff in the box pretty conservatively, like the rainbow carrots in installment 4 of this series.

I had a large Acme sourdough round on my hands and a big log of basic chèvre — fresh goat cheese.  Not the $40 a pound precious stuff, but the wonderful Laura Chenel that put US-produced chèvre on the map back in the day.

The wheels turned.

Why not make a warm tapenade to serve on top of thick slices of the bread slathered with the cheese?  Chèvre is tangy, light and dry-creamy and goes well with opposite flavors and textures.  Sturdy, curly-leaved red bohr, AKA “purple,” kale packs a pungent, bitter punch.  It could work, I figured.

red bohr kale bunches

I washed and cut my kale into short strips, stems and all.  No problem including the stems because the kale would be braised and processed.

Kale saute mix

I used butter and oil in my saute mix.  Why not?  The tapenade would be eaten warm, so butter would work well, but you don’t have to use it.  I tell you as much in the recipe at the end of this post.

Kale saute mix blended

I sauteed the kale in the seasoned butter/oil mix, braised, processed and then pressed it into a pretty canning jar.  Serving it in a glass jar was a nice little bonus that the family appreciated.  They get the whole “eating with your eyes” thing around here.

kale tapenade and chevre on crusty bread

We toasted thickly-sliced bread, layed on goat cheese, and then topped with the warm kale spread.

I hope you give this a try as an altenative to your usual kale preparation.  Even folks who don’t like it may in this disguise.  After all, you have to find some way to get this nutrient-packed veggie into the people you feed.

Garlicky Red Bohr Kale Tapenade
 
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Warm tapenade made with red bohr kale. Serve it in a canning jar for extra flair! Spoon onto crusty bread spread with chèvre.
Author:
Recipe type: Appetizer, Brunch
Cuisine: American
Ingredients
  • 2 bunches red bohr kale, washed and cut into 2-inch lengths
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
  • 3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil (you can use all oil and no butter, if you like)
  • 3 tablespoons crushed fresh garlic
  • 1 teaspoon red pepper powder or flakes (to taste)
  • Whatever else you like. A little chopped onion, for example. Chopped scallions. I sometimes use gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes -- the kind used in kimchi) and a drop of fish or anchovy sauce. Make it to your taste with logical seasoning combinations and alter the instructions below appropriately).
  • Kosher salt to taste (amount dependent upon what you use)
  • ¾ cup water
Method
  1. Mix softened butter, oil, garlic and pepper into a paste and add to saute pan
  2. Heat mixture over medium flame until just bubbly and then add kale
  3. Saute kale for about 3 mins
  4. Add a little salt, if needed
  5. Add ¾ cup water
  6. Bring to a boil, cover and turn flame to low
  7. Allow to braise for 5 to 8 mins
  8. Strain kale mixture, reserving liquid for another use, like soup, or to drink later. Be sure to press liquid out of kale mixture very well
  9. Add kale mixture to food processor and pulse until fine -- but not too fine!
  10. Taste and adjust seasonings
  11. Move to attractive bowl or press into small canning jar
  12. Serve warm. Base recipe can be spooned onto fresh crusty bread layered with chèvre. If you make the kale Asian-style, you can serve it with steamed buns and plum sauce, for example
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The CSA Experience: Part 4

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Rainbow carrots from my CSA box

Rainbow carrots from my CSA box

In an effort to use everything that arrived in my CSA box while in its prime, today I made the rainbow carrots.  There wasn’t much to them, and I didn’t want them to get soft.
They look large in the photo above, but look at them here.

By the way, if you want to know what I did with the favas, check out the previous entry in this series.

Rainbow carrots taste like really good young orange carrots, by the way.  Serving your crew one side of rainbow carrots apiece will give them a good hit of phytonutrients in addition to the big players like Vitamin A, which the body is able to metabolize from carotenes.  Apparently each color offers a specific extra benefit.  Yellow carrots, for example, are said to contain lutein — good for your peepers.

If you want to learn massive amounts about heirloom rainbow carrots, check out this Mother Earth News story.

So what to do with the carrots?

I wanted a simple side that would allow the sweetness of the little carrots to shine, to retain a good amount of texture and nutrients, and to capitalize on their simple beauty.

To be honest with you I was pressed for time.

I trimmed, peeled, quartered or halved them lengthwise and sauteed gently in seasoned butter. I finished with a little hazelnut oil and sea salt.

They were perfect.  We all wanted more.

Rainbow Carrots with Hazelnut Oil & Sea Salt
 
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Rainbow carrots sauteed in seasoned butter and finished with hazelnut oil and sea salt.
Author:
Recipe type: Side
Cuisine: Vegetable
Serves: 4
Ingredients
  • 2 bunches (about 14) rainbow carrots, trimmed, peeled and sliced (halved or quartered, depending upon thickness)
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • ½ teaspoon onion powder
  • ¼ teaspoon Kosher salt
  • Pinch white pepper
  • Sea salt, as desired, for finishing
  • Toasted hazelnut oil, as desired, for finishing
Method
  1. Heat butter and oil in a saute pan
  2. Add carrots and saute over low-medium heat for a moment
  3. Add onion powder, Kosher salt and pepper
  4. Saute until tender-crisp
  5. Remove to a serving bowl and drizzle with a little hazelnut oil and sprinkle with a little sea salt
  6. Serve warm
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The CSA Experience: Part 3

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What it looks like inside a fresh fava pod

What it looks like inside a fresh fava pod

I never tangled with fresh favas at home.  Always bought dried.

They showed up in my CSA box last Thursday, so I had to deal, and this is the day I penciled this veg in.

I heard that they had to be not only wrestled out of their pods, which would have to be destrung prior, but also that each bean needed to be liberated from its leathery cover after blanching and an ice water bath.

I don’t think so.  No time due to a birthday and Mother’s Day.

One of my blogger friends makes fava pods in the style of edamame — the salty little soybean pods that you pop open as a snack.  She pointed me to a recipe in the San Francisco Chronicle for roasting the pods that render the skins of the beans edible, for sure, and maybe even the pod covering — if the pods are young enough.

My fava pods do not look young to me, but what the hey.  I washed and trimmed them, rubbed them with oil and salt and spread them out on a sheet pan.  Blasted them in a very hot oven, per the recipe provided.

Want to see the finished pods?

Whole roasted fava pods

My son, husband and Mother had them as a snack — with lemon wedges — while watching TV.  They ate pods and all.  A bit messy, but good.

I did not serve them with a nice chianti.

Whole Roasted Fava Pods
 
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Whole roasted fava pods in the style of edamame
Author:
Recipe type: Snack or side
Serves: Depends
Ingredients
  • Whole fava pods, washed and trimmed (and destrung, if you like)
  • Canola oil
  • Kosher or sea salt
  • Pepper
Method
  1. Arrange favas on sheet pan and add some oil
  2. Coat favas with the oil (mix with your hands)
  3. Sprinkle with salt
  4. Roast at 425 deg. F for about 25 mins -- until golden and tender
  5. Add more salt to taste
  6. Add some pepper
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The CSA Experience: Part 2

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These are the leeks that came with my CSA box last week

The first installment of my CSA series covered quite a bit of ground about what the CSA concept is all about, and a bit about the company I chose for my own home-delivered organic produce:  Albert & Eve.

Let me now tell you what and how much was in my first box, which arrived last Thursday. There’s a photo of the contents here.

1 huge romaine lettuce
2 bunches of rainbow carrots
1 large broccoli
5 massive leeks — so long I had trouble fitting them in the fridge
2 bunches red bohr kale
1 bag fresh fava beans (about 15)
3 medium artichokes

It all came in minimal packaging: a paper bag with the odd inner bag or two, one plastic.
Everything was fresh as can be and looked and smelled great.

Now, here’s where you have to plan a little based on shelf life.  Artichokes and broccoli can hang around for a good week.  The lettuce was already slated for a family-sized Mexican entree salad for that same night — and a lunch salad the next day for my son — so I had to think about leeks, kale, carrots and favas.

The favas and carrots were in quantities fit for one side or one snack each for the four of us. The kale could make a meal if I used both bunches, or two sides, if I used one at a time. The tremendous leeks would serve as the base for two meals:  one using the tender parts, another using the tougher end greens.

First up on the chopping block:  leeks.  If you haven’t hung with many leeks in your life, they’re related to onions and garlic, but are much milder.  They look like really big scallions.  Only the white and light green parts are eaten and the rest is used for stock.

They’re popular in the UK — especially Wales, and often show up in soups.

I decided on a leek and feta scramble.  With preserved lemon, which I always have in spades because my lemon trees are good to me.

A little sumac, too.  Sumac is a tart spice made from dried berries — very popular in the Middle East.  It’s generally sprinkled on top of finished dishes.

Feta, sumac and preserved lemon on wooden board

Feta shards, sumac and chopped preserved lemon for the scramble

A recipe accompanies this post, but the idea is to chop the tender part of the leeks, saute until soft, add whisked eggs and cook so that you have large, soft curds, adding the feta and seasonings at various stages.

Please purchase blocks of sheep’s milk, or sheep’s/goat’s milk feta — in brine, if you can — and not the cheap, tasteless, pre-crumbled stuff so popular these days.  Good feta should be salty and tangy with real mouthfeel.  If you buy fat-free feta, well, you’re going to be sorry.  When dishes have only a few ingredients, you need them to be the best they can be. Just sayin’ — don’t mean to be preachy, but better to have a little real feta in there rather than lots of the cardboard kind.

Pastured eggs would be a good choice here, too.  They taste like eggs used to taste, because the hens producing them roam around and eat bugs and worms and whatever else they like to peck at in addition to their feed.  If you can’t afford them for general use, spring for them when you’re making a scramble or some fried eggs.  You’ll really enjoy the taste of their deep yellow yolks.

Leeks cut in half

OK, leek prep.

Once you trim and liberate the tender from the tough, as in the photo above, store the latter back in the crisper.

Then clean the leeks by cutting them lengthwise all the way through from about a half-inch from the bottom.  Then make a similar cut between your original cut, which will ribbon the leaks, allowing you to clean nooks and crannies as you flagellate them in a sink full of water.

Then you can dry them off and chop away.

leeks being chopped

Then saute slowly until soft.

sauteed leeks

Then add everything else in stages.  I sometimes add the cheese along with the seasonings, as I did here, but generally I add it as indicated in the recipe — right at the end.  This time around the cheese was on the dry side, so no worries about it releasing too much brine during extended cooking.

Leek and feta scramble in frying panWe were so happy about the soft, mildly-oniony scramble that I neglected to photograph the finished product — which we consumed with a side of good toasted bread, which is all you need.  The addition of the sumac and lemon added a whisper of citrusy tartness to the salty, creamy, funky feta backbone.

Trust me, it looked good, too.

Tune in next time for favas.

Leek, Feta & Preserved Lemon Scramble
 
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Soft scrambled eggs with leek, feta, preserved lemon and sumac.
Author:
Recipe type: Brunch
Serves: 5
Ingredients
  • 4 to 5 leeks, chopped (the white and very pale green parts only)
  • 2 tablespoons canola oil, or more, if your leeks are large
  • 2 tablespoons butter, or more, if your leeks are large
  • 10 eggs
  • ½ pound feta cheese, broken into medium shards
  • 2 tablespoons preserved lemon, finely chopped (If you can't find jarred Morrocan preserved lemon, just chop a quarter of a lemon finely, mix with a ½ teaspoon of kosher salt, and store in fridge overnight)
  • ½ teaspoon sumac
  • Kosher salt
  • Ground black pepper
Method
  1. Add canola oil and butter to a large, heavy skillet over medium flame
  2. When hot, add leeks and turn flame down to low
  3. Add a little salt
  4. Saute leeks until nice and soft
  5. Whisk eggs with a little water (water will help soften them), the lemon and the ground pepper
  6. Add egg mixture to pan over leeks
  7. At short intervals, pull eggs from the bottom of the pan with a spatula to form large curds
  8. When eggs are still quite runny, gently mix in feta
  9. Keep pulling up the eggs gently until the feta is very soft
  10. Remove scramble to serving platter and sprinkle with sumac
  11. Serve with good toasted bread
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