Author Archives: Renate Valencia

I cooked an Asian meal today

lion’s head meatballs 3-16-08

Chinese dinner tonight for friends.  I guess I’m just crazy enough to make Chinese food for Chinese guests, but I figure they’d appreciate the gesture as I do when someone serves me up some Eisbein that is less than echt.  I made a couple of my favorite Shanghai-style dishes:  lion’s head meatballs, which are first fried and then braised in cabbage leaves, and pork belly braised in wine, soy sauce, ginger and rock sugar.  For some reason I also served up kare-kare, a Filipino dish of tripe and oxtails laced with annatto oil and peanut butter, just for some contrast.  It’s generally a bad idea to cook something you never made before when company calls, but I saw this in Jeff Smith’s The Frugal Gourmet on our Immigrant Ancestors (1990), and wanted to give it a go.  I love kare-kare, but you can’t eat too much in one sitting or you’ll feel like killing yourself.

kare kare 3-16-08

Yes, I know this meal was too heavy in sum total, and I should have had a veggie or fish dish to round it all out, but we wanted to go for broke.  I didn’t even mention the potato Kugel with blood pudding dip – which sent this nothing-really-goes-together meal into depraved territory.  Yes, yes, I know Jeff Smith has been accused of terrible things and I should never use his cookbooks because that would go against the wishes of the powers that be – essentially to wipe his memory off the face of the earth, but I have no intention of stopping.  His cookbooks are pretty good.  Rip off my arms and legs if you want to.

braised pork belly

Breakfast at Jimmy Bean’s in Berkeley

Sage in 2008

Our niece, Sage, was here for a visit this month, which was nice since I have not seen her for almost 10 years.  She and Matt are the same age, give or take.  Sage is majoring in environmental studies at the University of Vermont, and currently spending a semester looking at water-related issues here in the West, so this afforded an opportunity to come see us.  She ultimately wants to become a nurse practitioner in the area of women’s health.  Matt, Sage and I discussed all of this and more over breakfast at Jimmy Bean’s (1290 6th Street, Berkeley) today, which was fun.  We all had breakfasty things, like eggs and/or potatoes.  Matt had a goat cheese and mushroom omelet, so he was the most “Berkeley” of the three of us.  On the way to drop Sage off at the BART station for her foray into SF, we stopped so I could use the restroom at the little collection of shops at Gilman and 10th street.  I know, I know, I should have gone at the restaurant.  The delay was fortuitous, though, in that Sage ran into one of her UV professors at the BART station, which would never have happened had we not made that pit stop.

Ganache

cupcakes with ganache frosting

When you find yourself with leftover chocolate and heavy cream there is only one thing to do:  make ganache.  I threw together cupcakes today as a vehicle for the ganache.  To make a long story short, you’ll need two parts semisweet chocolate to one part cream.  Boil the cream and pour it over the chocolate (in small pieces) in a bowl.  Let it sit for a moment and then whisk or stir until smooth.  You can use this to glaze cakes, frost cupcakes, make truffle balls, or simply eat as-is.  Yes, eat as-is.  Man, there is nothing like cold, leftover ganache that you have to pry out of the container.  The longer you let ganache sit the firmer it will be.  Our cupcakes were not pretty because Matthew was loading them up with the stuff at various levels of firmness, so we lost that glossy effect we had after the first layer.

The men of the house

Steven in 2008

Pix of the menfolk.  Here’s a photo of the founder of the feast (on the right).  He works hard so I can do this kind of thing much of the time.  He’s not easy to photograph because he hates having his picture taken and acts all weird.  We also have Matthew and Jon, who need to be beaten away from the front of a camera with clubs.  They promptly grab photos I take of them for upload to Facebook.  Matthew has photo albums on Facebook with titles like “me,”  “more of me,” “me in SF in June,” and other variations of “me.”  Man, I would have hated to plaster my photo around when I was 20.  It must be wonderful to feel so secure at that age.  They walk around like they are The Shit!  Steve, Matt & Jon eat quite a bit of the food I talk about on the site.  These are serious food people:  lusty appetites and the desire to try almost anything.  Matthew, who favors Chinese food, recently said it would be out of the question for him to have a serious relationship with anyone who didn’t like dim sum.  “The person doesn’t know how to handle chopsticks — I’d have to think twice about that.”

Jon and Matt in 2008

One recipe of Nigella’s bites

I like Nigella Lawson’s cookbooks.

I got a used copy of Nigella Bites (2002) the other day and prepared two recipes thus far:  chocolate fudge cake (page 47) and liptauer (page 161).  I am always on the lookout for a good chocolate cake recipe, but I can honestly say that this isn’t one.  The cake itself came out dry and bland and is not worth the ingredients or multiple bowls you’ll need.  I have numerous “toss everything in one bowl and let her rip”- type recipes that turn out a much better product.  The frosting was also just so-so.  That said, my mother loved the cake because it was not overly sweet and she liked the heavy, buttery frosting.

The liptauer, however, was great.  (Liptauer is what Californians would incorrectly call a schmear for bagels, even though schmear means “a little,” as in, “a bagel with a schmear,” which, when ordered in New York City, would get you a bagel with a little plain cream cheese.) . I had an Austrian chef-instructor in cooking school who talked fondly about liptauer.  It’s a cheese spread that you make by processing everything together in one fell swoop and then pressing the resulting mass into a mold.  You eat this stuff on bagels or good, hearty bread – the kind that can stand up to the caraway seeds, which provide a pronounced flavor to the mix.  The only thing I suggest is to drain the cottage cheese she calls for – since I assume you’ll be using the runny cottage cheese that is prevalent in the US.  My guess is that people in Europe use quark, which is something like cottage cheese but not easy to get here and considerably more expensive.  If you can find dry curd cottage cheese, that’ll solve your problem altogether.  Please do not use fat free cheese or you won’t get a good mouth feel – and that goes for the cream and cottage cheeses.  Use real block cream cheese, sil vous plait.  I have no photos of the items, so I substituted Berry, just to add a little color to the entry.

Berry the akitachow looking mellow in 2008