Make something easy and refreshing, like I did. I had a 1 pound container of lump crabmeat from Costco on hand that I needed to use, as well as three heads of romaine lettuce. What else would there be to do but make Thai crab lettuce wraps? I could rig up the lettuce leaves and filling and then we could all roll our own wraps on the fly while watching a movie. Sold. I broke up the crabmeat and mixed it with chopped scallions, roasted peanuts, lime juice, fish sauce (you can get this in any Asian market), Sriracha sauce (ditto about the Asian market, but you can use some kind of dried, ground chili, as well, though not the ‘chili powder’ mix for chili con carne), chopped cilantro, a few chopped mint leaves, shredded red cabbage, a pinch of sugar and a little salt. Make your filling to taste with the things I mention, but if you are not used to nailing that hot-sour-sweet profile so common in Asian cuisine, then mix the liquids, Sriracha and sugar by themselves until they work well together (taste as you go) and then add the result to the other ingredients. You don’t want to waste a pound of crabmeat, which I would rather die than do. Advice: don’t add too much liquid to the filling; you can always save leftover sauce for something else. Go easy on the salt, because there is plenty of it in fish sauce. Go easy on the fish sauce. Fish sauce is magical. If you use a little, you’ll get great flavor that won’t immediately make you think of fish sauce. Too much, and you will be turned off and won’t taste the crab. Let the mass sit and mingle in the fridge for an hour, covered. To prep the lettuce, just cut off the stem and separate the leaves. Fill your sink with cold water and some ice, if you have it, and let the leaves soak in there for a few minutes. Move them, in layers, to paper towels. You can then roll them up in the towels, wrap up and store in the veggie crisper of your fridge, if you won’t be eating right away. I don’t need to tell you how to eat this, do I? I thought not.
Category Archives: Recipes
Happy Easter 2008!
Easter Sunday! We once again made roast duck. My mom stuffed them with green apples, adding great flavor and a bit of acidity, which is nice with fatty foods. The stars of the meal were the Junior’s cheesecake, which I made from a recipe in Molly O’Neill’s New York Cookbook (1992), and my old standard, the 7-up cake. The cheesecake was exactly as it should be – dense, a bit crumbly and not too sweet.
Jon was over for the weekend and we all had a fun holiday together. I once again was able to harvest enough duck fat to see the family through the next six months of roast potatoes, and Berry made out pretty well, too. Happy Easter to all!
Ganache
When you find yourself with leftover chocolate and heavy cream there is only one thing to do: make ganache. I threw together cupcakes today as a vehicle for the ganache. To make a long story short, you’ll need two parts semisweet chocolate to one part cream. Boil the cream and pour it over the chocolate (in small pieces) in a bowl. Let it sit for a moment and then whisk or stir until smooth. You can use this to glaze cakes, frost cupcakes, make truffle balls, or simply eat as-is. Yes, eat as-is. Man, there is nothing like cold, leftover ganache that you have to pry out of the container. The longer you let ganache sit the firmer it will be. Our cupcakes were not pretty because Matthew was loading them up with the stuff at various levels of firmness, so we lost that glossy effect we had after the first layer.
One recipe of Nigella’s bites
I like Nigella Lawson’s cookbooks.
I got a used copy of Nigella Bites (2002) the other day and prepared two recipes thus far: chocolate fudge cake (page 47) and liptauer (page 161). I am always on the lookout for a good chocolate cake recipe, but I can honestly say that this isn’t one. The cake itself came out dry and bland and is not worth the ingredients or multiple bowls you’ll need. I have numerous “toss everything in one bowl and let her rip”- type recipes that turn out a much better product. The frosting was also just so-so. That said, my mother loved the cake because it was not overly sweet and she liked the heavy, buttery frosting.
The liptauer, however, was great. (Liptauer is what Californians would incorrectly call a schmear for bagels, even though schmear means “a little,” as in, “a bagel with a schmear,” which, when ordered in New York City, would get you a bagel with a little plain cream cheese.) . I had an Austrian chef-instructor in cooking school who talked fondly about liptauer. It’s a cheese spread that you make by processing everything together in one fell swoop and then pressing the resulting mass into a mold. You eat this stuff on bagels or good, hearty bread – the kind that can stand up to the caraway seeds, which provide a pronounced flavor to the mix. The only thing I suggest is to drain the cottage cheese she calls for – since I assume you’ll be using the runny cottage cheese that is prevalent in the US. My guess is that people in Europe use quark, which is something like cottage cheese but not easy to get here and considerably more expensive. If you can find dry curd cottage cheese, that’ll solve your problem altogether. Please do not use fat free cheese or you won’t get a good mouth feel – and that goes for the cream and cottage cheeses. Use real block cream cheese, sil vous plait. I have no photos of the items, so I substituted Berry, just to add a little color to the entry.
Sushi spring rolls
In the interest of something light and fresh, I made sushi spring rolls this evening. This is something I have been making for years, essentially rolls with rice paper and lettuce instead of rice and seaweed. You need: butter lettuce leaves, spring roll wrappers (these are made of rice and are dry and round — kind of clear. You need to soak them before use) and fillings. If you purchase some sashimi grade albacore tuna, which is reasonably priced, and a package of kani kama (fake crab meat set up in pieces for sushi), you’ll be in good shape. Be sure you have a bit of Best Foods/Hellman’s mayo, some Sriracha hot sauce, a few scallions, an English cucumber and a Haas avocado, too. With these things you can make tuna rolls, spicy tuna rolls, tuna and scallion rolls, fake crab rolls, spicy fake crab rolls, California rolls, spicy California rolls, and more.
You’ll need to prep everything first and then set up an assembly line. Separate your lettuce leaves, wash and dry them thoroughly. You can store them in a plastic bag between damp paper towels if you prepare them in advance. Wash/dry/chop the scallions. Peel the cucumber and cut into 3″ X 1/4″ segments. You won’t need to seed an English cucumber, but you will if you use the other kind. Cut the halved avocado into long slices. Take half of your kani kama and pull it apart slightly so it is not so densely packed. This stuff is generally stringy so you will be pulling apart strands. If you get the variety that is solid, which is not as good, then just leave it as-is. Shred the other half and mix with enough mayo to make a non-runny crab salad. Take half of the crab salad and mix in a bit of the Sriracha. You will now have some kani kama, some crab salad and some spicy crab salad. Take your tuna and cut it into 3″ strips of any thickness you like. If you bought a large piece of albacore you should have some trimmings – meaning perfectly good to eat but in scraps. Chop the trim coarsely and mix with a little Sriracha. If you don’t have trim then you can use some of your blocked tuna, of course.
You now have, count ’em, five fillings. Set up an assembly line starting with a large bowl of warm water, about six wet paper towels, and a dinner plate. Then you’ll need a dry board to prepare your rolls, and a sharp knife and clean place to cut them. I use a large board and do the cutting on one corner. Finally, you’ll want a serving plate to place the cut rolls. Place your veggies and fish fillings within easy reach of the board, and be sure to keep the bottle of Sriracha handy in case you want to squeeze some directly into rolls. Have plenty of hand towels nearby. Now take four of the wrappers and submerge in the bowl of water. Let them stay there for about a minute. Lay a wet paper towel on the dinner plate and spread out a soaked wrapper on top of it – being careful not to split or tear it. Then cover with another wet paper towel. Keep layering until you have no more wrappers. Add wrappers to the water and replace in the paper towels (new ones on the bottom of your layers) as you go so you always have soft wrappers ready. Then you will need to do this: take a wrapper and lay it out on your board. Cover the inner 2/3 or so with lettuce leaves so you are placing filling onto the lettuce and not the bare wrapper. Add veggie lengths in the middle and then top with some sliced fish or fish salad so you have sort of a tube shape of fillings. Add scallions – or not. Pretend you are filling a burrito in that you want to wind up with a hefty roll but have enough of the outside of the wrapper available to roll it without any ooze. Then roll it up as you would a burrito: fold in the sides and then tuck the top under the front of the fillings and roll toward you as tightly as you are able. It takes practice to produce a non-floppy roll, but you can always eat your mistakes. Then cut the roll in half at an angle and place on your serving platter. Since all of these fillings go together you can add what you like when creating rolls.
Eat them as soon as you can after they are put together and serve with soy sauce, ginger and wasabi, if you like. Note that I did not include any quantities since I do not know how big you will be making your rolls. For the four of us I generally use about 12 ounces of kani kama and 12 ounces of albacore. If you live near Berkeley you can buy the fish at Tokyo Fish (1220 San Pablo Avenue) or Berkeley Bowl (2020 Oregon Street). They carry large pieces (about a pound or so) of frozen sashimi grade albacore that generally needs only minor trimming of fibrous material. I have rarely had to deal with a bloodline in these hunks of fish – which you always want to trim off and discard. The kani kama will also be available frozen. Buy the frozen fish a day or two in advance and let it thaw out in the fridge. The rest of the stuff can be found at any decent Asian market. Trust me.
Another hint is to keep everything dry. Wet lettuce, for example, will keep softening the wrappers and turn your rolls into mush. Keep moving your wrappers, too – don’t let them sit in the water too long. Even if they feel too firm when you take them out they will be soft enough when you need them because they will be in wet paper towels awhile. If the paper towels dry out, wet them. Wipe your knife off with a kitchen towel between roll cuttings. Finally, don’t yell at me if you feel these instructions are not detailed enough. Instead, just contact me if you want to know more. Believe me when I tell you that these rolls are worth learning how to deal with spring roll wrappers.