I baked my version of the $3.00 cupcake today using the sour cream cake recipe from The Ebony Cookbook (1978), by Freda DeKnight, and a basic milk chocolate buttercream recipe from school. Just to be interesting I used pans with odd shapes, like a ghost mini cake pan that springs into action every Halloween. The cake was a bit rubbery so next time I’ll try a pound cake batter; most cupcake batters are just too soft for my taste. Incidentally, this is one great cookbook. No pictures, but a treasure of recipes, especially if you want to make things like coffee cakes and biscuits. Plenty of good ideas for chicken, too.
Category Archives: Recipes
Boulud’s Braise
I made two recipes from Daniel Boulud’s Braise (2006) today, the tripe with spicy yellow peppers and watercress (pg. 100) and Southern-style black-eyed peas with bacon (pg. 181). Let’s talk tripe. I love it, and this dish sounded so damned good I thought I’d go through all the prep and the zillion ingredients to prepare it. I used what he said and did what he said and it turned out good. It was complex – a bit spicy with a sweetish backdrop – but I think I’d like a little more peanut butter and a higher PTT (potato-to-tripe) ratio. The extra PB would make it a bit more comforting and provide more body to the sauce, and the potatoes make the dish a meal while serving as a foil for the flavor parade that is the sauce, so more of them would be a plus. I’d also reduce the stock slightly. I can’t see myself making this dish all that often, not so much because it is quite a bit of work, but for the same reason I only order Singapore chow fun one time for every thirty orders of “regular” chow fun: it has a very distinctive flavor and, as a matter of personal taste, it’s not something I want more than a few times a year.
I took a couple of liberties with the black-eyed peas and bacon dish: I used canned black-eyed peas and substituted 2/3 of the slab bacon with pork belly, which is basically slab bacon that has not had anything done to it. If you like a pronounced smokey flavor, then you should use all slab bacon, but I like it in small doses. I also used slightly over a pound of meat, which is way more than the recipe calls for, but I had a piece of pork belly in a “use it or lose it” situation. Finally, I substituted plain old yellow onion for the red. This was excellent – so savory and rib-sticking. Next time I make this pork and beans super deluxe I’ll serve it with some crusty rolls and a green salad. I cooked it so long it was like a confit – and a little goes a long way.
The Stinking Rose in SF and their bagna calda
At The Stinking Rose (325 Columbus, SF) they have an appetizer called ‘bagna calda.’ This is something I really like, so I make my own version at home all the time. It tastes best with fresh garlic, but go ahead and use that large tub o’ garlic from Costco. This is more or less a dish of garlic confit that you eat by sopping it up with hunks of crusty bread. You need: many whole cloves of garlic, extra virgin olive oil, black pepper, anchovies (if you like), red pepper flakes (if you like), a piece of lemon and a glazed clay sauté pan (or any heavy-gauge sauté pan). If you have a flame tamer, use it. You do: put the garlic in the sauté pan and pour olive oil in to cover the cloves completely. Add a bit of black pepper and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Set the pan on a very, very, very low flame and let her rip for about an hour and a half – until the garlic is soft and golden brown. You do not want to fry the garlic! Check it often to make sure you are not frying the garlic! If you like anchovies, chop up a few and toss them in whenever you like. If you want them liquefied, add at the beginning. If you want them macho, add at the end. If you don’t use anchovies you will need to add salt to this dish. Squeeze a little lemon in right before you serve it. Note: you can place the ingredients in a casserole and bake in a low oven until the garlic is soft – but not the lemon, which should always be added right before service. Have a bunch of baguettes and some hearty wine available. Once you make this a few times you can customize it to taste, as I do. The version I photographed as it was on the stove has a few green olives and has a ways to go.
7up cake
The the food news of the day is limited, though I did perpetrate a 7up cake using a recipe from the Discovery Health Network show, Just Cook This. I was channel surfing last week and caught the 9/20 episode, noticing that it involved three grandmothers coming on the air with a recipe apiece. This cake is easy, easy, easy, and tastes great. It’s basically a take on pound cake. Several of my African American friends make this cake, though I never tried myself. Now I see why it’s popular and I plan on making this for the holidays. If you give it a shot, note that I used a silicone bundt pan and it took a good hour and a half to cook through. Also, in my experience, pound cakes stick to ungreased silicon pans, so you’ll want to use some of that pan spray with flour. If, for some reason, Discovery Health pulls the recipe, just contact me.
Buttercup Bakes at Home
I broke down and baked cookies today. Steve had gotten me a slew of cookbooks for Christmas last year, including Buttercup Bakes at Home (2006), by Jennifer Appel, which has some enticing recipes, so I chose the peanut butter and chocolate chunk cookies. This is an example of how important photos are in a cookbook. I made this particular recipe because of how delectable the cookies look on the cover. In fact, that photo made me ask Steve for this book in the first place. Pathetic. The only thing that went wrong was that the chocolate I had ready for piping seized up a bit while I tended to some drama involving Berry and the mail carrier, so rather than nuke really good chocolate twice, I just piped it on as it was, which resulted in big globs instead of attractive stripes. The cookies tasted great and had the perfect texture – not too soft, not too hard and a bit chewy. I like to put cookies in the fridge, and these worked very well toward that end, coming out kind of blondie-like. Buttercup is a popular Manhattan bakery, and they seem to have made their recipes approachable.