I received Daniel Boulud’s Braise for Christmas and spent the afternoon putting together the Mackerel with Herb Curry (pg. 158), having been seduced by its glossy representation. The Spanish Mackerel looked pretty sad at the fish store, so I substituted a small, whole, white-fleshed salmon that was on sale at 99 Ranch Market for $1.99 per pound. $11.61 and ‘fish cleaning option #3’ later, I arrived home with a bag full of fat salmon steaks, head and tail. Even though I did not have a Kaffir lime leaf nor tomato juice nor a red bell pepper nor the plum tomatoes, the dished turned out to be a big hit here at Chez Akitachow. I substituted fish stock for the tomato juice (yes, there are people who have fish stock around but not tomato juice — so shoot me!), a green bell pepper for the red and beefsteak tomatoes for the plum. To hell with substituting for the lime leaf. I also added a whisper of Spanish paprika to make up for the loss of the red bell pepper. Serve this baby with rice and you’ll convert even those wimps who never before looked a fish steak in the eye.
Category Archives: Recipes
Braised beef shanks
Yes, I braised the beef shanks I talked about yesterday. This is an easy recipe. As long as you have shanks, canola oil, a decent acid, some aromatics and salt and pepper, the rest is gravy.
This is something you make by feel. Really, it is very hard to mess this one up unless you make it too salty, so take care with salt or salty ingredients. Start with fresh beef shanks, sliced or not. Salt and pepper them. Brown all sides in a large, heavy, oven-proof pot with a little canola oil. Make sure the pot is good and hot when you add the meat. Add some aromatics, such as onion, celery root and garlic. Peel and cut into rough slices. The garlic may be tossed in without chopping. Feel free to brown the aromatics, but I did not do so here. Whatever does not dissolve into the braise may be fished out and discarded, as you prefer, at the end of the cooking process. Add some flavorful liquids, including at least one acid. I used soy sauce, red wine, beef stock and a can of tomatoes. Use ratios that make sense; clearly you want more stock and wine than you do soy sauce. Add enough liquids to just cover the shanks, but you do not want them lost at sea. Add a little dried thyme or something similar, like marjoram, if you have it. Dried herbs are perfect for a braise since they have plenty of time to release their flavors, so don’t bother wasting money on fresh herbs for this recipe. A small handful of dried mushrooms works well at this point, in case you have some on hand. If not, don’t bother. Bring this mass to a boil, then cover and place in preheated 325 degree F. oven for a good 2 1/2 hours – more if your shanks are not sliced. You may also braise them, covered, on the burner if you must — like if your oven is broken or you use it as storage — in which case you should maintain a low simmer for aboutthe same amount of time. Just check them every now and again so they don’t burn. The braise will look thin and pale for the first hour or so, but don’t worry as it will develop color and body as it cooks. The finished product should be fall-off-the-bone-tender, but not mushy.
Serve as is, or use a hand blender to homogenize the sauce, but be sure to serve with something that makes full use of the sauce, like potatoes or a good bread.
Chicken mole
I threw together a chicken mole the other day, loosely using a barbequed ribs recipe passed along to us in cooking school. The base recipe produces a dark, sweet-hot result that needs only a bit of tweaking to turn out something most people familiar with mole would recognize. Check out the recipe and see what you think. I made some cornbread to go with it. Though using a cast iron skillet yields an excellent product, it is also nice to use an earthenware dish. It looks good when you serve it, too, if you are willing to give up some of the crunchy goodness.
Chicken Mole
Place the following, quantities to taste, in a large bowl or other receptacle that is hand-blender friendly, meaning deep enough not to splatter sauce when you turn on the juice:
Cilantro, stems and all, rough cut
Green onions (scallions to you, East Coast), rough cut
Parsley, stems and all, rough cut
Garlic, chopped
Soy sauce
Black bean paste
Chili paste
Dijon mustard
Maple syrup
Chilis in adobo sauce (careful – this canned product is HOT)
Dried chilis (I use an assortment – whatever I have on hand)
Orange juice
Dried figs, rough cut*
Apple cider vinegar
Unsweetened cocoa powder*
Lemon rind
Garlic powder
Onion powder
Cumin (ground or seeds)
Thyme (dried, ground is fine)
Marjoram (dried, ground is fine)
Mustard powder
Using a hand blender, bring mass to sauce consistency. There should be some substance left – but no big chunks. Add water if you need to but do not allow the sauce to become runny. Rub sauce onto and into a whole chicken and roast. I like to use a cazuela. You can use chicken pieces, if you prefer.
Omit the figs and cocoa and use pork butt to make fabulous carnitas. Just be sure to slow-roast the meat in a heavy pan and press a sheet of foil on top – but do not seal the pan. Remove the foil for the last hour of cooking.
Arroz con Pollo, I Miss You
Today was a cooking day: arroz con pollo, Puerto Rican style. Fried plantains, too.
I really miss the Puerto Rican food I grew up with in New York City. Diana, an older friend I had when I was 17, made the best arroz con pollo on the face of the earth. She tried to teach me how to replicate it but I never even came close. I decided to try again when I discovered that a couple of the Mexican food centers in Berkeley carry Goya products.
Goya, oh Boya! Their advertising catchphrase sounded wonderful when the company’s 1980s spokesperson, actor Zohra Lampert, of Let’s Scare Jessica to Death fame, semi-whispered it on TV.
Goya is ubiquitous in New York City. Anyone who has taken the subway would have seen their ads even if they never cooked.
Making these things reminds me of trips to Orchard Beach with Diana and her large family. We would haul enough arroz con pollo there to feed an army, and pick up tropical sodas and other family members in the Bronx on the way. It took us a couple of hours to get there because there was no end to the stops for this or that.
Diana’s annatto-laced reddish rice — moist but still crumbly and never gummy — was the star of her arroz con pollo show. She had gandules (pigeon peas) in there, and capers, and sofrito, a fresh seasoning mix. So many wonderful things. She put it all together by feel and the dish was always spectacular.
We would eat it warm, and the chicken pieces – still on the bone – would loosen and pop out of the rice when you dug into it with a big spoon.
I still hear clashing music and family mayhem coming from all those jam-packed picnic tables at Orchard Beach on hot summer days. Now and then I’m sitting in the back seat of that loaded station wagon heading down the Grand Concourse full tilt as happy as WKTU’s disco beat.
I won’t bother giving you the recipe for the chicken because I need to work on it, but plantain instructions follow.
- Green plantains, peeled and cut at an angle into ½-inch slices
- Canola oil
- Coarse salt
- Lime wedges
- Shallow fry plantain slices in hot canola oil until barely brown
- Drain on paper towels and allow to cool
- Smash them gently with a flat mallet or the side of a bench scraper or metal spatula with a weight on the other side. You get the idea, right? Explaining this in text is like telling someone how to tie a shoe. You want to flatten them a bit and break them but not pulverize them.
- Fry the slices again in hot oil, transferring to paper towels when nice and brown
- Salt liberally and serve with a wedge of lime
Albany High’s Winter ball
Albany High School (Cali, not NY) had its annual Winter Ball this evening. Check Matthew and Jon out right before the affair! Once they left we snacked out on a bunch of goodies from Trader Joe’s, including chicken liver pate and spinach dip. I also threw together a dip with equal parts mayonnaise, shredded parmesan, sour cream, cream cheese and crab meat. This mass goes into a buttered casserole and is baked until browned and bubbly, at which point you are moments away from saturated fat nirvana. We watched several episodes of the 1960’s TV show Naked City while we ate, which has great location shots of New York City.