Tag Archives: poultry

Chicken al mattone, or “under a brick”

Mattone in action

Mattone in action

The most delicious chicken dish in the universe is chicken al mattone, or chicken under a brick.  If you cook lots of chicken then I would purchase a mattone, which is a two-piece affair:  a shallow terracotta dish – kind of like a cazuela, but with shorter, straight sides and glaze on the inside only.  Piece #2 is a teardrop-shaped terracotta weight.  You use this contraption on the stovetop to cook a butterflied, oiled and seasoned bird by pressing it into the shallow pan with the heated weight.  You will wind up with highly flavored meat and crispy skin.  Honestly, you won’t believe how good this chicken turns out.  Clearly there is something to cooking in clay that is more than the sum of its parts.

Chicken in a mattone ready to cook

I honed a recipe that works with pieces and uses only a few ingredients.  Here’s what you do:  Wash and dry a whole butterflied chicken or pieces and set aside.  Put the mattone press (the top part) into a cold oven and set the heat to 375 F.  Wait about 10 minutes.  Place the mattone base on your burner with medium heat.  No need to use a flame tamer, but I guess you can if you want to.  Immediately pour in about 1/3 cup of good olive oil and sprinkle in a handful of dried oregano, some ground black pepper and kosher salt.   No need to use fresh oregano because the cooking method opens up the dried version fine.  When the oil is hot, put in the chicken – skin side down.  If you have a whole chicken you’ll crowd the pan, which is fine.  Strew some oregano and S & P on top of the chicken and drizzle on a bit of olive oil.  Remove the press from the oven with a good mitt and place directly on top of chicken, pressing down firmly but not with enough force to knock your range over.  You get the idea.  Turn down the flame so you maintain a little sizzle but not too much; a smidgen over low should work.  When it comes time to take the chicken out of the pan, first remove the press and set it on a wooden board or some other surface that is not cold.  Remember, a rapid temperature change will cause clay cookware to crack!  Test the temperature of each chicken piece with an instant-read thermometer to make sure it is done.  As of this entry you want 165 F., but be sure to check current requirements with the USDA often, since they change.  The chicken will stick to the bottom of the pan, so use a straight-sided spatula of some ilk to loosen it before you scoop it out.  This process can be fairly intense but if you are patient and work under the skin with some oomph and a slight back-and-forth motion, you’ll get it out intact.  I place the pieces on a huge platter of spring mix and then spoon the drippings, which are so good this dish should be illegal, over the top.  The warm “dressing” is all that is needed on the salad.  I serve this with some rice and roasted peppers, which I’ll give you the recipe for tomorrow, I promise.  Notes:  If you want to butterfly a chicken, take a good set of kitchen shears and make one continuous cut along each side of the backbone starting at the pope’s nose and ending at the top.  Then open the chicken up and press it down (with the skin side facing up).  Plunk that long backbone in the freezer for congee or stock.  If you don’t want to get a mattone, use any clay dish (glazed on the inside) with sides that may be used on the stovetop as the base, and a few clean bricks for the press.  Some people wrap the bricks in foil, but I do not.  When I first buy the bricks I wash them well and then bake for quite some time to clean and sterilize, and then wash them thoroughly after each use.  You won’t get the same results but the dish will still be tasty.  If I don’t want a mess, I crimp foil under the base of the mattone all the way around as I place it on the stovetop so I have a “wall of foil” around the whole setup.  When I have the press on, I then tent the affair by placing a sheet of foil on top.  The cooking chicken can still breathe (you don’t want it airtight) but it provides a little more heat for the chicken to cook through while keeping all the spritzing oil at bay.

Chicken cooked in a mattone - under a brick

Free chicken sammies at McDonald’s today

Free Southern Style Chicken sandwiches at McDonald’s until 7:00 p.m., today only.  The catch is that you have to buy a medium or large beverage – but not the sweet tea, since it’s being promoed at a dollar.  Funny how getting something for free at a fast food establishment always involves the purchase of a beverage, no?  Well, not really.  Anyone in the restaurant business knows that the mark-up on soft drinks is usurious.  In Berkeley, where Matt and I went to check out the free grub, it cost us each $1.65 for the soda.  The key point here is that this new product is a knock-off of the Chick-fil-A, a hugely popular sandwich in the Southern states. Chick-fil-A, the name of the chain restaurant, is also the name of its signature sandwich, I think, but they do serve other things.  We are talking a deep fried piece of chicken breast on a steamed bun dressed with pickles and butter.  I though the McDonald’s version was pretty good, but I leave it to the fanatical Chick-fil-A devotees to set us straight.  The bun was soft and sweet – what they call a “regular bun” and the one you find around those lame basic hamburgers.  The chicken piece was not huge, but fine, and moist and fairly thick for its size.  Had I not read it, I would not have known about the butter.  A bit of quick research tells me that Chick-fil-A uses no trans fat to fry, so it has it over Mickie Dees there.  When you look into the trans fat situation on the McDonald’s website it is not easy to get exactly what you need since there is quite a bit of what seems like misdirection, but I figured out (from the ingredients section) that both the bun and fried chicken contain trans fat (i.e., partially hydrogenated oil) and that, for most of the USA, each sandwich has 1.5 grams of trans fat.  This total trans fat number came from the nutritional information.  It is not clear how much of the trans fat is attributable to the frying oil vs. the bun, unfortunately, nor is there anything (unless I missed it) about what kind of oils, specifically, they are using to fry various items.  When I did a global search to find out what the deal is in terms of reducing their use of trans fat in general, I found this:

Frequently Asked Questions About McDonald’s USA Food & Nutrition

Q: What is the status of the trans fatty acid reduction at McDonald’s?

A: Reducing, and where possible eliminating, trans fatty acids from our fried menu items continues to be a priority at McDonald’s. Our goal is to provide our customers with significantly reduced or 0 gram TFA fried products that meet their expectations for taste and quality. We are pleased that we’ve identified an alternative oil which thousands of customers say produces the same great taste in our Fries. McDonald’s ability to achieve broader distribution of the alternative oil is now based upon availability of supply. We’ll keep you posted on our progress. Meanwhile, we continue to provide TFA information in all our nutrition information materials, including our Web site, in-store nutrition brochures, trayliners, and now some product packages.

I am soooo glad that McDonald’s has “identified an alternative oil.”  Had they asked me years ago, I would have suggested several oils, including Canola.  Gee, I wonder why it has taken them so long?  Do you think money has anything to do with it?  I guess we’ll all be in better shape when they get that “supply” issue worked out.  Do you think that whatever they’ve done has been proactive or reactive?  I’m also confused.  It’s looking like the only thing that gets fried in this alternative oil is French fries, and that the only places it is in use are where McDonald’s has been legally required to change their ways.  Doesn’t that conflict with the idea of “broader distribution” being “based upon availability of supply?”  I’m not being sarcastic here — I really cannot figure this out.  Do they only use it where they are forced to?  Do they not use it elsewhere because there is not enough of it?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Also, what is the “alternative oil?”  Is it something like Canola oil?  Is it a blend of good oils?  I hope it’s not a substance they are producing in their lab somewhere, but I have my fears since I would think they’d tell you what it is if it’s not scary.  When will the government force these rich bastards (and not only at McDonald’s) to use better oil, period?  Incredible that California is behind the trend here.  Back to our regularly scheduled chicken sandwich.  I would give it a go if you need to get that fix on, and it’s nice to have a sandwich choice that isn’t slathered with unidentifiable sauces and piled high with a bunch of other crap, like iceberg lettuce, that does nothing but get all over when you open the wrapper.  I hate that!  Oh, yeah:  the McDonald’s in Berkeley now sells another Southern favorite, sweet tea, and was offering samples.  I would be surprised if it lasted around here because it is unbelievably sweet. 

The most important news, though, is that the California Supreme Court legalized gay marriage today, striking down laws that declared it unconstitutional.

Buffalo wings in the East Bay

Decent Buffalo wings alert for the East Bay.  That’s right, good Buffalo wings have made their way to Pinole in the form of a Wing Stop (1581-A Fitzgerald Drive).  They have a number of saucing options, sides and whatnot but we had only the mild Buffalo wings and were very satisfied.  They may not be as good as some of the best in the country, but they are very solid.  Top-shelf Buffalo wings are still a little crispy, and the sauce permeates the chicken, but not completely, and they are a little vinegary from the red pepper sauce.  Wing Stop’s lacked that underlying crispness and hint of vinegar – at least our batch did.  I’m picking nits, so don’t hesitate to buy a bucket of the damned things.  I have no use for teriyaki wings and their ilk, so I can’t speak for those.  Wing Stop has tables, which is a good thing since Buffalo wings are best eaten right away.  All in all, quite good for a national chain.

Chicken mole

Chicken mole made with a whole chicken

I threw together a chicken mole the other day, loosely using a barbequed ribs recipe passed along to us in cooking school.  The base recipe produces a dark, sweet-hot result that needs only a bit of tweaking to turn out something most people familiar with mole would recognize.  Check out the recipe and see what you think.  I made some cornbread to go with it.  Though using a cast iron skillet yields an excellent product, it is also nice to use an earthenware dish.  It looks good when you serve it, too, if you are willing to give up some of the crunchy goodness.

Chicken Mole

Place the following, quantities to taste, in a large bowl or other receptacle that is hand-blender friendly, meaning deep enough not to splatter sauce when you turn on the juice:

Cilantro, stems and all, rough cut
Green onions (scallions to you, East Coast), rough cut
Parsley, stems and all, rough cut
Garlic, chopped
Soy sauce
Black bean paste
Chili paste
Dijon mustard
Maple syrup
Chilis in adobo sauce (careful – this canned product is HOT)
Dried chilis (I use an assortment – whatever I have on hand)
Orange juice
Dried figs, rough cut*
Apple cider vinegar
Unsweetened cocoa powder*
Lemon rind
Garlic powder
Onion powder
Cumin (ground or seeds)
Thyme (dried, ground is fine)
Marjoram (dried, ground is fine)
Mustard powder

Using a hand blender, bring mass to sauce consistency.  There should be some substance left – but no big chunks.  Add water if you need to but do not allow the sauce to become runny.  Rub sauce onto and into a whole chicken and roast.  I like to use a cazuela.  You can use chicken pieces, if you prefer. 

Omit the figs and cocoa and use pork butt to make fabulous carnitas.  Just be sure to slow-roast the meat in a heavy pan and press a sheet of foil on top – but do not seal the pan.  Remove the foil for the last hour of cooking.