Hellmann’s mayonnaise has been around since 1913 and my family has been using it since 1952, the year my Grandmother, Mother and Uncle immigrated to the US from Germany.

When we relocated to California in 1995 we continued to enjoy it, though under its West Coast brand, Best Foods.

My Uncle and his malicious wife are still enjoying it on Long Island, no doubt.

The only product in recent times that came close, aside from the old Safeway Select version that no longer exists, is Costco’s Kirkland Signature.

Sadly, things have taken a turn.

Hellmann’s/Best Foods mayo had always been the standard by which all others were judged. Wonderful flavor. Creamy yet dense texture. The last jar I purchased looked different, however. And though there was something on there that said “NEW LOOK SAME GREAT TASTE,” it took only a dip of my spoon to know the texture was NOT THE SAME. It was as if there was more air incorporated into the product. And it follows that more air means less flavor and a deprecated mouthfeel.

Damn, you Best Foods! Oh, sorry. Damn you, Unilever!

There is nothing on the new jars that says “SAME GREAT RECIPE,” and we all know that “TASTE” and “RECIPE” are not equivalent. I don’t know exactly what changed, but I believe the product is lighter, so I’m guessing they’re using air to save money. You know, like overrun in ice cream. Crappy ice creams are high in overrun. Lots of air.

Maybe they’re looking for ways to offset their use of free-range eggs, who knows?

The unsubstantial texture and dumbed-down flavor will force us to purchase Kirkland Signature from here on out. It’s a little saltier, but thick with great depth of flavor. And it’s less expensive.

Greed. It’ll get you in the end. At least I hope so.